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Started out my week
vacation right! Decided that it was time to get going again on the
300. Dobalicious (aka Frank) came by to help with motivation (and
muscle). First up, taking off the tarp that's covered the 300 since
approx Sept of last year, where only the 300 emblem peeked out the front.
Protected the car from the elements (mainly concerned with snow) but there
was still plenty of settled dirt, as evidenced by this pic. |
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Here we go again
with Frank hamming it up for the camera! Also using this picture to
show the way redneck K-frame dolly I "made." The casters have a 1.5"
square beam going through the shock tunnel. This caused a severe toe
problem (toe-out or toe-in dependent on which direction we were pushing it
in). The trans was supported by a 3/4" plywood dolly with 4 swivel
casters (in garage forever). Also used was a chain wrapped around the
sway bar clearance holes and the crank pulley, to keep the k-frame from
dragging. It worked very well, and we didn't need to lift the nose of
the car that high. |
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Ok folks, here's
something juicy that I spent WAY TO MUCH TIME ON!!!! If you see the
following "reinforcing pad" it isn't! This is the bottom of the old
rubber isolators. Remove before powdercoat or whatever coating you
decide. I had this done 3.5 years ago (TRG
Coatings) and I didn't know better. |
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Mmmm... White
rustoleum. Yup, a little oxidation underneath. This is what it
should look like! |
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Ok, this is how low
we had to go. Everything fit! that's a good start. Key
here is to get the K-frame as square as possible and by the engine and
steering box. |
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Adding in the solid
aluminum isolators. I used the original long bolts to finish lining
everything back up. Next, jacked the entire front of the car up enough
to get a floor jack to then jack up the K-frame. Replaced the bolts
one at a time. Then torqued them down. |
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Headers are Hooker
Competition Series Ceramic Coated. A swap meet find for 38% original
price! Passenger side fit right in from underneath (remember, no
torsion bars). |
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Driver's side was a
tad more difficult. But not really because only hours earlier there
was nothing here. Just inexperience in the way. Had to remove
the mini starter (a standard starter would be a tight fit) and take out the
steering center link. Snaked the header back up (also of note,
steering column not reconnected at this point) and onto the studs.
Reinstall center link and the starter and Voila! |
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Ok, here's a
finished view from the side. You can clearly see the steering going
through the driver's header. I didn't lose too much room for ground
clearance. Up next, the rest of the suspension!!! |
